Monday, June 29, 2009

what makes a life

what makes a life

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DSCN2323.JPG In Islamic culture, it is believed that the future is in God's hands and ultimately out of our control. In any reference to the future, Muslim people always use the phrase insha' Allah. (إنشا الله). This is loosely translated as "if God wills." Used in the same context is the Spanish word ojala, residual of the Moorish occupation of southern Spain more than 500 years ago. In English we usually just say "hopefully."

It was a year ago at this time that I found a picture of what I would actually like to do with my future.* Now wrapping up my first field project, which has brought me back to Morocco where I have broken ground socially and academically, it seems natural that I would return here for future projects in graduate school. The realization of making a real life, dotted lines and all, not just a vacation, beyond southeastern PA is quite something to get my head around. No more coasting. It's both scary and exciting, but active choices have to be made to make a life that is more than just sustained.

Having talked so any times about when and if I will return to Morocco, the phrase insha' Allah has ingrained itself in my vocabulary. It might be misinterpreted to mean that we cannot influence or predict the future, but it acts more as an acknowledgment that the world is not fully in our control. An extended time at the mercy of IRB protocols, airplane pilots, cold epidemics, weather, new people, language barriers, even the food you eat, is enough to get a sense of this. I would be lying if I said I knew exactly what to expect in graduate school or in Morocco. The only thing I am certain about is my choice. In addition to being a country full of wonderful people, Morocco lends itself as an exciting stage for the cooperation and competition between Old World and New World, a dynamic that is challenging the entire globe. We saw a small piece of that in its souqs, and I am so much looking forward to seeing more.

*Maybe the best teachers don't necessarily tell you anything new, but show you what is already there.

5 Comments

youssef said:

(إنشاء الله).
we don't know what will be happent, but i know that u hope to return here, & waiting for that i want to add that Old World and New World arn't in competition but they live Together here.

youssef said:

We dont know what will be happend, but i know that you hope to return here.
And waiting for that (إنشاء الله), i want to add that Old World and New World are not in competition , but they live together here in Morocco.

Naima said:

I loved reading about your research in Morocco. I am an MBA student at Pennstate and I am originally from Morocco. Your page is just so great, I think you were able to capture so many cultural aspects of the daily life in Morocco.
Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Wish you the best of luck in your research.

Ucf said:

I just want to say that in the holly Quran god said (the meaning of the verse): don’t say that you are going to do something tomorrow but if god wills.

I think that is something good when you said insha’ Allah. This word gives you peace and harmony; because when you believe in god you know that every thing including your live it's because of Allah,for the simple raison that He is our creator.So as you said "we cannot influence or predict the future, but it acts more as an acknowledgment that the world is not fully in our control"

Every one who said insha' Allah is some one who really know his place in this world :)
I wish you the best.

Ahmed Chaouki said:

Nice work! I wonder what attracted you to Morocco in the first place?


in the space of a canteloupe

in the space of a canteloupe

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In research we are expected to observe and collect data from the real world, summarize, analyze, and churn it out to compact some aspect of reality into a portion that can fit inside the mind of a reader.

If the written word displaces the setting from the reader, how much more will summarized data deviate from that reality we are trying to explain? In the hard sciences, we try to work around this issue by creating an ideal, or artificial, environment to carry out experiments, and project those results into the real world, hoping that they will still apply. In anthropology we have to accept from the start that our lab setting is not ideal (which might be why we are drawn to it to begin with). However, because an investigation in any field must have some specific object, the data must be decontextualized to an extent. There can be many deviations from this objective and overlaps of categorization (will read Clifford Geertz for more on this). Their filtration quickly becomes subjective, and a matter of practicality if you actually want to produce a piece of written work. But these are all still part of reality, and I am sure that a million studies could not replace the real experience of a place and people.

Research does force you to look closer at something that you otherwise might not have, so in this way it can enhance this experience. It certainly enhanced mine. I don't know if I would have appreciated those exchanges that I saw in the Berber souq, which superficially looked less involved than the ones I saw in other markets, if I was not made to think about why they operated as they did. On top of immersing you in another culture, research also provokes you to think about why things are as they are in your own. Why is it, and do they really have to be that way?

Usually we talk about culture shock in reference to that alienation you feel when you are dropped in the middle of a country other than your own. Another form is the reverse, which you feel when returning home from a radically different place, that transition of reprogramming all the new behaviors you have learned. These experiences are more than can fit inside the space of a canteloupe, even too big for me to absorb as they are happening, but I am more than eager to share them.

wrapping up

wrapping up

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Back in Marrakech today. I am spending these last few days taking some last minute notes between goodbyes. There is only so much I can do in nine days, but I am very pleased with what I did manage to get done. Starting as an independent study that will give me a boost for grad school applications, I can say that this time has turned just as much into a scouting tour for future projects. I already know that this time has been indispensible for that reason and for the fact that now I have better ideas on how to approach and organize this kind of research. I can definitely spend more time here if it means working with people as fantastic as I have.

In the past week I have learned more Darija (Moroccan Arabic) than I did in a month last year. This is the result of being in the same place for periods of time with very patient people (and maybe a translator around as a buffer) who speak not a word of my language. It is also how I learned Spanish, and I would think it is the only way to really learn a new language passably if it were not for the Moroccans that I met that can speak non Moroccan languages without really having been forced to. They are definitely not shy about what they know and it is something to learn from. Ma tahashumsh! they tell me. Don't be shy. This is how they learn, and once I am forced to get over my shyness in order to make it through a day, the effect is exponential in terms of progress. In the grander scheme, it is drops in the ocean of this language, but it has made a world of difference between myself and every single Moroccan person I talk to.


TWZ said:


Glad you got a lot of notes for your research! I've been following this blog. Told Superman Josh about it, don't know if he's read it or not.

I'll be at the airport between 12:30 and one tomorrow. See ya then.

-- TWZ

Brian said:

I feel like I was there. I like the analysis on barganing. I would never think that they didn't stay with set pricing. Pretty cool

who are the Berbers?

who are the Berbers?

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The Berbers are the indigenous people of North Africa. They lived here long before the Arabs conquered the land some thirteen hundred years ago. Today Berber blood makes up about half of the population in Morocco, and thins out as you go further east across North Africa. The Berber culture has been resilient through centuries of conquests that have swept through Morocco. It has managed to live, work, and still distinguish itself among others in relative harmony. Traditionally they live in more rural areas. Just about all of the Berbers that I have talked to in the cities trace themselves or their parents back to some small town, which is where the majority of their population has lived. They have their own language which they speak among themselves, and can vary regionally. Berber was strictly spoken until recently they developed a writing system for it, but this has not caught on too much as the schools only teach in French and Arabic. I imagine, then, that the propagation of the language in the modern day will rely on recurrent meetings of Berber people in one place. After the Berber towns themselves, the other of these places is certainly the souq.

Yesterday I took the opportunity to visit a traditional souq outside Essaouira (choukrane jazilan!). It is called a Berber souq, but Arabic people may also conduct their business here. These markets meet only once a week, each one a different day of the week. They function as meeting places for exchange, dispute settlements, and discussion for other public concerns. Nearly all sellers and buyers are men. I might have been one of 5 (visible) women and of 10 foreigners in the whole souq, although Moroccan ¨city¨ people may also be seen somewhat as outsiders. A portion of the shops are in buildings, but most set up in tents or on rugs along the ground. A few sellers hawk their inventory and prices on loThumbnail image for DSCN2168.JPGudspeakers, while others sit until someone comes by. Business is pretty active here, as I imagine some form of exchange must be on everyones mind for for having come to such a particular place at a particular time. Once lunch time comes around, sellers pack up their wares and their gains, and round up their animals to finish the business day.

This was by far one of the best experiences for my research, as it was unlike any of the other marketplaces I have seen so far. I would love to come back and do more work just in these souqs, as I feel this may give a better picture of Morocco from times before the cities depended on tourism for survival.


3 Comments

Marissa said:

Leaving a comment. Hopefully it'll show up?

Is that garlic in that picture?

Autumn said:

Yes! My comments work! Yes, that is garlic and what looks like cumin in the picture.

Jehanzeb said:

Finally, we get to comment :)

I learned so much from reading your wonderful blog. "Choukrane" instead of "Shukran"? Hmm, someone is definitely Moroccan-ized lol.

Hope everything is going well. Looking forward to more posts :) Khuda hafez.

a breath of fresh air

a breath of fresh air

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DSCN2046.JPGEssaouira is a small port city on the Atlantic coast of Morocco with a very Rasta feel. While Marrakech chews you up, Essaouira breathes you in so that you could easily spend a day sitting on the ramparts watching the waves crash up on the rocks, or strolling through the wide streets. The medina, also a World Heritage site, is littered with shops selling shoes, scarves, wood boxes, and other trinkets along whitewashed walls of tall buildings. The weather here is much kinder than that of Marrakech in the summer months, and even cold early in the year, which I am finding out the hard way.

In a place like this it is easy to let your cares go with the breeze that winds through the medina. But we are here to work! Tomorrow, insha' Allah, we look forward to a great opportunity to see how it's really been done for hundreds of years at the weekly bazaar. More on that later.

wouldn't you like to know

wouldn't you like to know

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Once upon a time there was a princess who lived in a castle. One day her cousin asked for her hand in marriage, but she refused. Angry and insulted by her refusal, he threatened to kill her, and so she fled, leaving behind her luxurious life as a kings daughter. Now she needed to find a way to feed herself, so she shaved her head and dressed herself in mens clothing, looking for a job. Her costume convinced everyone, but many people just didnt need anyone to work for them. She finally found a job with a man who sold doughnuts. For her payment, she only asked that she have three doughnuts a day for herself, and a place to sleep. Business soared for her and her boss. Some years later, her brother and her father, the king, came to the shop and recognized her.

If I knew Darija, or Moroccan Arabic, I could tell you what happens next and some more detail, but this is a work in progress. In the meantime we must rely on someone telling me what he can about whats going on (choukrane to my wonderful translator!).

This is the kind of story that you can hear in the Djemma el Fna. An older man tells the story in front of a small crowd, made up entirely of men. There are no women, I am told, because the language can fall hard on the ears. Just before he finishes, he solicits his audience for some coins.

I think I came across some chatter that in the old days, some anthropologists believed that the market and culture were separate things (I will have to brush up on this debate). However, when you see that culture in the form of say, Moroccan storytelling, becomes marketable, even to itself as in Moroccan people, the fusion is undeniable. You cant help but ask how this comes to be, and how, and if, you can distinguish the culture that is marketed from that which is not. In a place like Marrakech, culture is top commodity. Some things are modified especially for foreign tourists, like the hammams, or public baths, while the typical un-glorified ones continue as they were (as far as I know) to be a facet of Moroccan daily life. On the other hand, Marrakchis learn language on top of language to cater to foreign tourists. Language is an asset in the market, for both tourist buyers and Moroccan sellers, but it also becomes a feature of Moroccan culture, indeed one of the fastest means of cultural assimilation.

Obviously the causes and effects of this fusion demand a long, involved, but fascinating, study. For now, we do what we can with 9 days.

how not to burst

how not to burst

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Bargaining is ubiquitous in Arabic speaking Islamic cultures, reads one of my lit research articles.* Even the Prophet, as the article notes and so I have been told, bargained with God on how many times a day Muslims must pray. God began with 50 times (<---not 5000. Choukrane Youssef & Jehanzeb!). When the Prophet asked that he acknowledge human needs and imperfections, God settled on 5.

I experience bargaining in the market, and today I realize I experience it at the Moroccan table. Kulli, kulli! my matronly hostess demands after I put down my piece of bread, full. Eat! she says. I dont know how much more I can eat before I burst at the seams, but I dont know what will happen if I outright refuse. When I say that I am full, she says I must not like her food, which I promise is not the case. So we are faced with opposing interests. She wants me to eat more, and I dont want any at all. Damage can be done on either side. We must compromise. I break off a piece of bread and give it to another friend at the table, and I say I will eat if someone else eats with me. I know he is also full, so the spotlight eases off me. I eat a little bit more, and I hope that she believes that I do in fact enjoy her food. Finally the table is cleared with both of us satisfied and neither offended.

Moroccan people, especially one as gracious as my friends mother, dont let you out of their houses easily, or even a crumb short of full. I still did get in some time at the market today, and I even got one good sample, but as my recruit explained, business was quiet in his part of town. Right now I can hear the drums of the Djemma el Fna from this internet cafe. These will continue after the shops close, which is usually about ten o clock, and beat along with the rest of the spectacles, well into the night. Tomorrow, insha Allah, we go on soaking it in.

*Alon, Ilai, etc. Perceptions of Time and their Impact on Negotiations in Arabic Speaking Islamic Cultures... the rest of the citation TBA once I get my hands on it again.


2 Comments

youssef said:

God began with something like 50 times. not 5000.
ok

Jehanzeb said:

This from the Hadith (Sayings of the Prophet Muhammad, peace be upon him)

Volume: 1 Book: 8 (The Book of Prayer) Number: 345

As narrated by Ibn Hazm and Anas bin Malik:

The Prophet, peace be upon him, said "Then Allah enjoined fifty prayers on my followers. When I returned with this order of Allah, I passed by Moses who asked me, 'What has Allah enjoined on your followers?'

I replied, 'He has enjoined fifty prayers on them.'

Moses said, 'Go back to your Lord (and appeal for reduction) for your followers will not be able to bear it.'

So I went back to Allah and requested for reduction and He reduced it to half. When I passed by Moses again and informed him about it, he said, 'Go back to your Lord as your followers will not be able to bear it.'

So I returned to Allah and requested for further reduction and half of it was reduced. I again passed by Moses and he said to me: 'Return to your Lord, for your followers will not be able to bear it.'

So I returned to Allah and He said, 'These are five prayers and they are all (equal to) fifty (in reward) for My Word does not change.'

I returned to Moses and he told me to go back once again. I replied, 'Now I feel shy of asking my Lord again.'

Then Gabriel took me till we reached Sidrat Muntaha (lote tree of the utmost boundary) which was shrouded in colors, indescribable.

Then I was admitted into Paradise where I found small (tents or) walls (made) of pearls and its earth was of musk."

rising to Marrakech

rising to Marrakech

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DSCN1922.JPGEverything went without a hitch yesterday and today. It is amazing to see how many things have not changed, even when there would be no reason for them to do so. I spotted a few faces I remember, and a couple even remembered me.

The main square of Marrakechs medina is called the Djemma el Fna. It is the number one tourist destination in Morocco. It is active 24/7, but its peak time is after sundown. This is marked the maghreb call to prayer, which resounds dramatically throughout the medina from the minarets of 3 different mosques. After this time, the non Moroccan tourists are mostly siphoned into the restaurants and hotels, while the square is flooded with Moroccan visitors.

During the day time, between the sun, dusty pavement, and constant sensory activity coming at you from all angles, Marrakech can chew you up really fast. Staying fed and hydrated cannot be underestimated. I walked with some friends through the pink high walled mazes of the medina. It seems like the souqs just go on until they are absorbed into residential houses twinned by shops between them.

Tomorrow I get in my first round with a shopkeeper. Business is slow, he warned me, but I will be satisfied if I can get in even one good sample.

Al-Maghreb

Al-Maghreb

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DSCN1437.JPG In Arabic, Morocco is called al-maghreb, or المغرب, read right to left, and it means sunset. When the Arab conquest was at its peak, the sun would begin its journey over the empire at its furthest reaches in India, and set dramatically here at its western border. I only speculate that this is the narrative of how the country got its name.

Al-maghreb comes from the Arabic word for west, which is gharab (غرب).

The maghreb has another meaning for Moroccan and non Moroccan Muslims alike, as it is one of the 5 daily prayer times mandated in the Quran. It is also when they may break their fasts during Ramadan.

Pinning down the language of Morocco...

Pinning down the language of Morocco...

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DSCN1451.JPG ...because it can get slippery if say, someone tells you that Moroccans speak Arabic, and so you absorb 5 books on the Arabic language, and then, when you get to Morocco, you find you cannot understand a word after "salam alekum."

Arabic is the language of the Quran and therefore, of the Muslim world. Even those Muslims whose native language is not Arabic are still encouraged to learn it so that they can understand the Quran, which they say cannot be fully understood in any translated form. And then, even those who are native speakers of Arabic may not be able to fully understand Quranic Arabic because it is such an old and highly involved form. Some would take religious classes to better comprehend its meaning.

For modern formal communications such as newscasts and political speeches, all countries from Morocco to Iraq use Modern Standard Arabic.* Unless otherwise noted, this is what Arabic language books will teach. This standardized version of Arabic derived from the Quranic form is not a native tongue to anyone, but it is said that the Levantine dialects such as those of Syria and Palestine are among the closer spoken forms of it. The Moroccan or Maghreb dialect is arguably the most deviant form. It is so different that a Middle Eastern person could not understand what Moroccans are saying, although Moroccans can generally understand Middle Easterners because most movies and popular media come from Egypt and Lebanon. Needless to say that you can also speak MSA with most of them, but you still won't know if they are talking about you in Moroccan....

So if I want to go to Morocco and I really want to understand what people are saying, I have to be a little more creative on how to learn it, because there are very few books on the dialect. I don't want to get hung up on the reading and writing as I might in other languages (although it helps a lot to know the Arabic alphabet), because it is a spoken language, and not for formal discourse. I suppose that's why there is not much on it in print. Fortunately I have come across some indispensable resources, my wonderful Moroccan coworkers not the least of them. The others include Lonely Planet's Moroccan Arabic Phrasebook, and a fantastic website at www.speakmoroccan.com where you can read and ask questions about language, culture, and anything Moroccan.

For this project, I do not know nearly enough of this language to base my observations on it, so most of the data has to be non-verbal. I will use what I can understand (things other than curse words), like greetings, numbers, and any other phrases (curse words are relevant). These days leading up to takeoff, I've been using spare moments to brush up so that I can have more to draw on for my qualitative data ... not to mention it's lots of fun, and gratifying when you can understand something new.

*Check out Arabs need to find their tongue for a short but interesting commentary on the politics of MSA by JHU professor Niloofer Haeri.

Is there an Off switch around here...

Is there an Off switch around here...

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... other than sleeping? Even then, I have dreams.
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I don't know what else to do with myself if it's not being at school, work, or working on and/or thinking about this project. Talking to friends provides some escape, when there's a chance. If I am on my own, it's either sleep or do something scholarly. Aside from that, I freeze. That space between pulling away from the day's work and closing my eyes to sleep is the most awkward. As we say in the restaurant, it's almost impossible to fall right into bed even after the hardest days. You have to unwind somehow. Tonight a hot shower and this blog entry will do.

I am doing whatever I can short of wrapping myself in bubble wrap to keep in good health. I've taken a break from my lit research to start planning and packing the bags. I crossed a few things out on the list today, and made out well enough at the restaurant. Tomorrow is one of my last opportunities to make some money before the trip. If only I could tell my guests that they are supporting academic research, maybe they would tip me more.

1 Comments

Ucf said:

I want just that you read this chapter from the holly Quran; I hope that this one help you in wath you are trying to find. It’s call surate al Molk (surate the sovereignty)


In the name of ALLAH, the most beneficent, the most merciful!

1.Blessed is He Whose hand is the sovereignty, and He is Able to do all things.

2.Who hath created life and death that He may try you which of you are best in conduct;and he is the Mighty,The Forgiving,

3.Who hath created seven heavens in harmony.Thou (Muhammad) canst see no faul in the Beneficent One's creation.then look again:canst thou see any rifts?

4. Then look again and yet again,thy sight will return unto thee weakened and made dim

5.And verily;we have beautified the word's heaven with lamps,and we have made them missiles for the devils;and for them We have prepared the doom of flame.

6.And for those who disbelieve in their lord ther is the doom of hell,a hapless journey's end!

7.When they are flung in therein they hear its roaring as it boileth up,

8.As it would burst with rage.Whenever a (fersh) host is flung therein the wardens thereof ask them:Came there unto you no warner?

9.They say: Yea,verily a warner came unto us;but we denied and said:Allah hath naught revealed;ye are in naught but a great error.

10.And they say: had we been wont to listen or have sense,we had not been among the dwellers in the flames.

11.So they acknowledge their sins;but far removed (from mercy) are the dwellers in the flmaes.

12.Lo! those who fear their Lord in secret,theirs will be forgiveness and a great reward.

13.And keep your opinion secret or proclaim it,lo! He is the knower of all that is in the breasts(of men).

14.Should He not know what He created? And He is the Subtile,the Aware.

15.He it is Who has made the earth subservient unto you, so Walk in the paths thereof and eat of His providence.And unto Him will be the resurrection (of the dead).

16.Have ye taken security from Him Who is in the heaven that He will not cause the earth to swallow you when lo! it is convulsed?

17.Or have ye taken security from Him Who is in the heaven that He will not let loose on you a hurricane? But ye shall know the manner of My warning.

18.And verily those befor them denied,then(see) the manner of My wrath (with them)!

19.Have they not seen the birds above them spreading out their wings and closing them? Naught upholdeth them save the Beneficent.lo! He is Seer of all things.

20.Or Who is he that will be an army unto you to help you instead of the Beneficent? The disbelievers are in naught but illusion.

21.Or who is he that will provide for you if he should withhold His providence? Nay,but they are set in pride and frowardness.

22.is he who goeth groping on his face more rightly guided,or he who walketh upright on a straight road?

23.say (untio them Muhammad):He it is who gave you being,and hath assigned unto you ears,eyes and hearts.Small thanks give ye!

24.Say: He it is who multiiplieth you in the earth,and unto Whom ye will be gathered.

25.And they say: When(will) this promise(be fulfilled),if ye are truthful?

26.Say: The knowledge is with Allah only,and I am but a plain warner;

27.But when they see it nigh,the faces of those who disbelieve will be awry,and it will be said (unto them);This is that for which ye used to call.

28.Say (O Muhammad):Have ye thought:Whether Allah causes me (Muhammad) and those with me to perish or hath mercy on us,still who will protect the disbelievers from a painful doom?

29.Say: He is the Beneficent.In Him we believe and in Him we put out trust.And ye will soon know who it is that is in error manifest.

30.Say: Have ye thought: if(all) your water were to disappear into the earth,who then could bring you gushing water?

God says the truth.


counting down

counting down

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8 days out. The laundry list just seems to get longer as the time to get it all done closes in. It's a little claustrophobic, but it's part of what I usually go through before I travel somewhere. On top of that, sometimes just the idea of picking up and leaving is intimidating. You would think the anxieties are things you overcome after doing it a couple times. Some of it really just becomes routine. I guess that's what makes traveling what it is.

And in this grander scheme of things, it's part of what makes the actual research only half the adventure. This sum of so many logistical things. Like getting my shawl dry-cleaned. Anticipating my sleeping patterns. Believe me when I say these are relatively the smallest of things, but they still matter. The real anxieties, naturally, stem from those things that are out of my control. Will people and situations come through for me as I hope they will? Will British Airways PLEASE not go on strike? There are only so many things I can prepare for on this side of the Atlantic.

On the research side of things... Since I cut out the comparative side, I had to redefine again what I was investigating. Not as easy as it sounds. Some things sound great in your head and then not so good on paper, as I found in the first design go-around. But I think I am getting it.

I went off on a tangential during my lit research a few days ago. I came across game theory as a framework for the interactions that I would be observing in the souqs, and it was just fascinating. But the fit would have required too much, and the potential to misinterpret something was too great, so I had to let it go. It's still cool to think that I could probably write a whole separate paper from the point of view of a different field, that is, provided that I could read math, and had ever taken a class besides statistics that applied math to something other than physics.

Qualitative vs. Quantitative (2.21.08)

If a man sets out on an expedition, determined to prove certain hypotheses, if he is incapable of changing his views constantly and casting them off ungrudgingly under the pressure of evidence, needless to say his work will be worthless.

- Bronislaw Malinowski, Argonauts of the Western Pacific


Through all high school and undergraduate classes in science, the hypothesis is stressed as the focus of research according to the "scientific" method. I began this project feeling pigeonholed by not really knowing better into formulating a hypothesis, which, given my lack of experience in the field, ends up sounding more like a narrow presumption. Then, in addition to doing literary backflips to make qualitative data fit a binary hypothesis, I would have to contend with my conscience over why I came up with such a presumption in the first place. Enter my Jiminy Cricket in a discussion on modes of research in my STS class: This research is descriptive. A question mark will suit better for this project.

Why did I always get the impression that research had to based on investigating a statement rather than a question? As Malinowski implies, there is potential here to compromise the integrity of an investigation when it is based on a preconceived idea, especially when you're an academic plebeian (though far from the only requisite) like myself. I am glad to have moved further from that risk on this first go-around.

My decision to drop the American observations also relieves the weight on my shoulders. Now I can narrow down my question to the souqs in Morocco. The American observations I have scheduled will now function as guinea pigs for my guinea pigs. Actually, I'll be the guinea pig because I will be testing out my own time and space zones to find out how I can be the least intrusive in my research setting, so I can be more prepared for the real thing in Morocco.